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A lot of helpful replies and links have been posted already, so I'll try to clear up any remaining stuff and go into a bit more detail to allow you to make informed decisions on your own based on everything else that has been posted. (Roughly 10 new replies have been posted since I started writing this one, so some stuff may have been mentioned by now.)
Aaaaand my machine died... I can power it off, but it's absolute hell to power it back on. Maybe it's the power button, maybe its the power source, idk. I'm keeping it on forever until I buy a new one.
Which hardware is in this PC? You may be able to re-use parts of it for the new one. This is a bit of a double-edged sword since you don't know
which part of the old one died, and may very well be migrating the issue from the old PC to the new one by doing so... but you could theoretically save money by doing so, and if you don't re-use a substantial portion of the parts, chances are you'll be able to track down which one is the faulty one by process of elimination. Just an idea if the budget is a big concern.
Note that you shouldn't really do this depending on the age of this PC, as planned obsolescence may put a spoke in that wheel because hardware components are designed to fail after a couple of years.
I made a setup (sorry for Portuguese =/), but I have no idea if this is good or not and I have a lot of questions. Here it is:
MOTHERBOARD: Placa-Mãe Gigabyte B365M DS3H, Intel LGA 1151, mATX, DDR4
VIDEO CARD: Placa de Vídeo Gigabyte NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti OC 4G, GDDR5 - GV-N105TOC-4GD
CPU: Processador Intel Core i7-9700KF Coffee Lake Refresh, Cache 12MB, 3.6GHz (4.9GHz Max Turbo), LGA 1151, Sem Vídeo - BX80684I79700KF
MEMORY: Memória HyperX Fury RGB, 16GB, 2666MHz, DDR4, CL16, Preto - HX426C16FB3A/16
HD: HD WD Blue, 1TB, 3.5´, SATA - WD10EZEX
COOLER: Cooler para Processador Cooler Master HYPER H410R com LED Vermelho RR-H410-20PK-R1
POWER SOURCE: Fonte EVGA 700W, 80 Plus Bronze - 100-BR-0700-K
CABINET: Gabinete Sharkoon TG5 Blue Vidro Temperado 4mm Led Fan 12cm ATX
Just like how characters in RPGs can be good at different roles depending on their stats and skills, PCs can be good at different roles depending on their hardware configuration. So the most important question here is: What do you want this PC to be capable of? Can't be a wall if your defense and HP are low, if you catch my drift. Knowing what you want will be immensely helpful in helping you pick out the right parts - that is, not missing out in crucial areas and not going overboard with no benefit either.
Video Card: is it any good? Are better video cards or this is good enough?
There certainly are better GPUs than this. In terms of Nvidia's latest releases that are better than this one, you have the higher-ranked 10xx series GPUs, and then there's the 20xx and 30xx series, the latter of which is virtually sold out everywhere while the former sometimes tends to be sold for
more than its MSRP at launch due to the aforementioned impossibility of buying a 30xx series GPU combined with people still needing to buy new GPUs once in a while. In general, right now is about the worst time to buy a GPU that I could imagine.
Regarding whether it's good enough, I can't make any qualified statements without knowing what is supposed to run on it. It
is a budget option GPU, therefore newer games will not run at max settings (with "newer" being stretched a bit because the GPU itself is quite old already). Whether this is a problem depends on your use case.
CPU: I think it's top of the line and i9 is a steal here. Are this i7 good?
It was close to top of the line of the high end range last generation.
Also, to clarify about the "i-something": This is largely a product line label that carries no real meaning (anymore). They used to clearly differentiate between subsets of features (e.g. hyperthreading used to be exclusive to anything labeled i7), but the borders have merged for quite some time now (there are i5s with hyperthreading now). Something labeled i9 is not necessarily better than something labeled i7 for any particular purpose due to a variety of factors, including but not limited to single core performance, power consumption and whether or not you can make full use of all of the additional features one provides over the other. Kinda like if the only real meaningful difference between two CPUs is that one of them supports hyperthreading and the other doesn't, if you don't use hyperthreading at all, then getting the more expensive one won't give you any benefits. The "i-something" classification
does give you a rough idea of the target audience, though, with i3 targeting the low end, i5 mid range, i7 high end and i9 targeting enthusiasts.
What's good here largely depends on what you use it for. If this PC is supposed to play newer games that can take advantage of multi-core CPUs, having more cores can be advantageous. If you only intend to play GM games, though, you'll want to make sure it has good single core performance, as GM games only use one core and can
not take advantage of multi-core CPUs directly.
Finally, beware of the "F" in that CPU's name. For Intel's CPUs, this denotes a CPU that would normally have an integrated GPU, but does not (to be more specific, it has it perma-disabled). This may or may not be relevant to you. For example, it is relevant for me for the purpose of running Windows 10 in a virtual machine under KVM with hardware isolation, as this requires a dedicated GPU to be isolated and thus requires a secondary GPU (the integrated one) to boot the host operating system. Just something to keep in mind, but in general, unless you KNOW you need the integrated GPU, you don't need it.
(Insert obligatory "AMD" reference here, but you said that's a problem... with availability, I presume? So I won't go into that here. If you're concerned about them running hotter than Intel stuff, AMD is actually taking the lead here at the moment.)
HD: I will just plop my old SSD HD on the new machine. Can I do that without much of a fuss? I'm using Windows 10 and would like to keep all installed softwares.
Before you do this: What is your Windows license? This doesn't have anything to do with the SSD itself, but has everything to do with Microsoft's licensing model. If your license is an "OEM" license (which is likely the case if you bought a pre-built PC from a store), then that license is bound to the motherboard of your PC and changing it (or, in other words, putting the SSD in a different PC) will cause Windows to throw a hissy fit and you'll be looking at additional fees for getting a new license. If you have a retail license (e.g. bought from Microsoft's online store, NOT bundled with the PC purchase), this is not an issue.
That aside, this should indeed be plop and go.
Cooler: is this enough for the CPU?
This is a low profile cooler designed to fit into cases with limited space. You have a standard ATX case. This cooler's performance is not on par with full-size coolers, and given that the CPU you mentioned is not on the low performance side by any means, I wouldn't sign off on this without a huge asterisk. Your CPU is designed for overclocking, and I have my doubts whether this cooler will be able to keep up with that. Of course, that's only if you
are going to overclock your CPU, and if you aren't going to, you should probably not spend extra on a CPU that is designed for overclocking.
Power Source: I think 700W is good, but how can I be sure? Where do I look for power needs?
As a base line, add the TDP of your CPU, CPU cooler and GPU. These are listed on the manufacturers' sites. If you overclock anything, you have to factor that in as well.
With PSUs, you usually want more headroom than you need for various reasons, the main one being that if you run out of power, everything shuts down, and you don't want that under any circumstances. Another is efficiency, as PSUs tend to run most efficient at around 50% load. This is why, after initial calculations, I roughly double the wattage and then add some - if my CPU, cooler and GPU have a combined TDP of 350W, I'd go with a 700W~800W power supply. This leaves enough headroom for other components (which is not as substantial as those three "main" power suckers, but still to be considered), offers some room for upgrades with higher performance components in the future and lets the PSU run around 50% or a bit higher load for close to maximum efficiency. This keeps the power bill down by a bit, probably not by a lot, but every bit helps if you intend to keep this system for a long time.
Definitely do not cheap out on this part and only buy from reliable vendors. A bad PSU is the fastest way to fry your hardware... and therefore your budget.
Cabinet: I think it supports all my parts, how can I be sure?
The most important part is the form factor (ATX in this case). This is normed, so an ATX motherboard will, in 99.9% of all cases, fit into an ATX case unless it is obstructed by some other component inside the case either of the vendors was careless enough to put there. Your motherboard is mATX, as in micro ATX. Due to the smaller size, it will have less features than an ATX motherboard, most notably the expansion slots. If you plan to use anything other than a GPU that uses PCIe slots (e.g. capture cards, extra USB controllers, non-onboard network cards...), you may run into problems due to lacking slots.
Another thing to pay attention to is the dimensions of the GPU (length-wise and depth-wise) and the CPU cooler (depth-wise). Look up the dimensions of these two on their manufacturers' sites and match them against the inner dimensions of the case, give or take a bit (as the motherboard itself also takes up space and is not mounted directly to the back wall of the case).
Yeeeeah... so... I tend to buy everything as legal as possible. Maybe the Windows license that I have will still be good. A full reinstalation will probably remove all the programs that I have and some, like GM 1.4, I can't even reinstall.
You are supposed to be able to download, install and use 1.x if you own a valid license, so this should not be a concern. (Otherwise, please file a ticket.)
Also note that you do
not have to reinstall Windows if you purchase a new license. Just update the license and you're good to go.
Overall... for the highest possible accuracy of consultation, we'd need to know in greater detail what kind of things you use the PC for. The types of games you play, types of games you develop and anything else you do that can't be described as "basic office usage". Basically, anything you wouldn't trust your grandma to do on her PC can be considered.
Especially when you're talking about 64 GB of RAM, there are very few cases where you actually benefit from this much RAM. RAM capacity doesn't offer much of a performance increase, only a performance decrease - or crash - if it runs out, so if you have 32 GB of RAM sitting idle, that's 32 GB of wasted money. I'm not saying that you
definitely don't have a need for it, just want to make sure you will actually benefit from everything you invest in.